South Coast Track New Zealand

New Zealand’s South Coast Track is a magical journey through one of the world’s completely untouched forests where no axe has ever fallen or anyone ever lived. I/we have been there four times and plan to go again, maybe in late spring this year if my knee is good enough by then, otherwise next autumn. It is just great. Next time we plan to stay longer at the truly astonishing Westies Hut, have an extensive look at Price’s Harbour and Big River with a view to assessing how difficult it might be for us (as over 70s) at a future time to even venture out to remote Cromarty.

We will definitely take side trips to Long Point (Lighthouse) Hut and the Slaughter Burn Hut on the way to/from the Waitutu River. If the Grant Burn Hut is still available we will also spend a night there between the Waitutu and Westies. We will also probably walk as much as we can along the beach between the Waitutu and Westies (certainly from the Grant Burn to the Aan River as we did last time) because you can and because it makes a nice change.

Ditto between Port Craig and Rarakau car park you can walk along the beach at low tide from Te Whata to (from memory) Breakneck Creek (Hoka Stream?) though there is some rock-hopping (I have done it). In any case, on the way out it is the walkwire closest to the sea (the waves wash up the creek) where you can begin or exit this beach walk. Some of these streams seem to have changed their names since we were last there. For example, The Track Burn (where there are huts whose verandahs you may shelter under for lunch – ditto Hump Burn to the Waikoua River) now seems to be called the Waikoko Burn on the NZ Topo Map linked below.

We definitely think you should combine a jet boat ride on the Wairaurahiri River either coming or going from the Waitutu Lodge and that you should stay at the Lodge if you can afford the $50 a night (rather than the quite nice DOC hut at the Wairaurahiri Mouth) as it is just wonderful – and offers heated rooms, clothes washing, hot showers!

I enclose some snaps for your edification. Most of them are off-track actually. We always prefer ‘the way less traveled’.

I’m sure it is also delightful to stay at the Port Craig Lodge (they have meals/wine) as well (rather than the lovely DOC school house) but it was far too expensive for us last time we were there as you had to pay for the full cost of the Hump Ridge Track as well. We were last there in 2017.

There are two jet boat operators on the Wairaurahiri River: Wairaurahiri Wildeness Jet (Johan) and Wairaurahiri Jet (Roffy) . We have traveled (twice) with both and can assure you they will give you a great adventure. I have also been on the Hauroko some further times during my Dusky Track adventures. Johan now operates the Dusky service.

The Lake Hauroko (shelter available) crossing is mystically beautiful, then the jet boat follows the river for an hour of Grade 3 rapids plunging down the river through serene untouched forest. There are also a number of huts more or less along the way (eg Rabbit Flat, Teal Bay, Caroline, Lake Poteriteri) where you can be dropped off or picked up (eg for deer hunting purposes).

It is also possible to walk out to Lake Hauroko from the South Coast Track either via Lake Poteriteri or the Hump Ridge Track. There is also a 4WD track near the Track Burn which can be used as access. There are some private huts along the track (eg Track Burn Hut and Percy Burn Hut) which might be able to be arranged as accommodation eg through NZ Deer Stalkers. The Jetboat operators, or Waitutu Lodge or DOC would have information about this.

Percy Burn used to be left open (cost $15/night) but I understand it may now locked (due to freeloaders). This is a pity as it used to allow a pleasant dry lunch stop for passers by. As I remember though it has a nice dry verandah around the back. DOC have unfortunately removed huts at the Crombie Stream and Knife and Steel Harbour which also used to provide useful emergency shelter. The existence of a roof under which one might survive the (often) hostile Fiordland climate is very important (but apparently not to bureaucrats)!

For Fiordland travel we always take a tarp and a couple of hammocks which can both be slung under one tarp (For two this arrangement weighs under 500 grams. See eg Ultralight Hammock). On a wet day it is great to be able to stop for a break and shelter under a tarp (while sitting on one of the hammocks. See: The Importance of a Roof). Here is Della sheltering on one such wet, cold day at the Track Burn (It was wet enough that it got inside the camera – as you can see):